Surfing, like life, is all about feeling. We all want to feel freedom; excitement, passion, love, beauty. We want to fully express ourselves. We do this through our clothes, our lifestyles, our homes, and the lines we draw on the waves we ride.
When we surf we are continually experiencing powerful feelings, as if we are channeling or experiencing all of nature’s goodness as a wave of energy through our bodies ~ I’m sure you’ve had that feeling where you get an amazing ride, it could be a deep tube over coral reef or even your first time standing up. It’s funny because you know it was amazing, but to remember it is difficult, you have an idea what happened but the details are kind of like a blur of energy. The reason for this is at that time you were fully connected with what you were doing, riding waves demands that of you. You weren’t concerned about work tomorrow, the stresses of yesterday, you weren’t in the future or the past but right here in the moment with no conscious thoughts. You were simply feeling life with every cell of your being.
Those experiences feel good don’t they? They are what make us all think “How can I surf more, work less?” or “How can I just surf all the time?” We get back to the shore and we want that same energy buzz and freedom all the time, but sometimes our lives can’t deliver it. People will say “You can’t just surf your life away, you need to get a job!” , “You’ve got to look after the kids”, or “ Surfing won’t pay the bills”. So we end up taking this as fact, we believe it. We tell ourselves “It’s alright, I'll do this job everyday and get a surf or two in on the weekend” or “I’ll work hard all year and then go to Indonesia for 2 weeks of bliss”. Few of us stop and think that we can have this blissful lifestyle every day, always. With the growth of the surf clothing industry billions of dollars are made and careers are built around the lifestyle. Many of us do scheme up ideas like going on the dole or working nights etc., to maximize surf time but all of these come with a sacrifice. Whether its dollars or just having to put up with a boring day job, daydreaming of where we would rather be, Tahiti, Hawaii, Fiji, Mexico, Spain, South Africa or……